Slip lasted shoe and process of making the same



May 22, 195 K. A. STRITTER sup msmn SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Nov. 9, 1948 [nven tor: Kai)"/ A Striker SLIPLASTED SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 9, 1948 K. A.STRITTER May 22, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Zn vfinfm Kali A SIN/fer PatentedMay 22, 1951 UNITED STATES FATENT OFFICE SLIP LASTED SHOE AND PROCESS OFMAKING THE SAME Application November 9, 1948, Serial No. 59,063

12 Claims. I

This invention relates to slip lasted shoes and to methods of makingsuch shoes, the general object of my invention being to provide a closedtoe and/or closed heel slip lasted shoe of sturdy construction having anend stiffening element at one or both ends of the shoe, the shoe beingof sturdy construction comfortable to the wearer and relativelyinexpensive to manufacture.

In order to accomplish these objects of my invention, I provide a socklining and an upper lining, each having only a seam allowance, theadjacent margins of which are stitched to one another completely aroundthe shoe, when a fulllength upper lining is used, to form a liningassembly. I provide also an upper having end portions with a toe pieceand a heel piece attached thereto respectively at the toe and heel endportionsof the upper along the lower margin thereof, that is, along thefeather line, by which is meant that line on the upper which. will lieadjacent to and parallel with the corner of the last bottom. The upperassembly comprising the upper and end pieces is attached along thefeather line to the lining assembly from a point. adjacent to-butforward. of the breast line almost to the tip. line on both sides of theshoe, leaving the toe and heel end portions of the upper free from thelining assembly, thereby facilitating the introduction of a toe box andcounter in the shoe between the upper and the lining, the counter beingpreferably inserted before and the toe box after the last has beeninserted in the shoe.

In order to permit the turning back of the free end portion-sot theupper, the end pieces are slit and each of the end pieces isperipherally shaped like the corresponding end of the sock lining sothat, after insertion of the end stiffening elements, the upper may bebrought into proper lasted position by securing each of the end piecesto the bottom of the corresponding end of the shoe, the slits in the endpieces being closed, thus to restore them to their original shapeswhich, since they correspond to the bottom of the corresponding end ofthe shoe bottom, Will position the attachedupper at the feather line tocorrespond with the periphery of the sock lining. While this applicationdiscloses the use of botha heel piece and a toe piece, it is within myinvention to use only a heel piece or a toe piece.

As will be disclosed, a shoe embodyin my inventionmay be completed togive a conventionally lasted exterior appearance or it may be completedin the form of a platform or prewelt shoe.

These and other objects and advantages of 2 my invention will appearmore fully from the following description when read in connection withthe accompanying drawings and Will be pointed out in the appendedclaims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the sock lining and upper liningattached to one another;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the toe piece;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the heel piece;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upper, toe piece and heel pieceunited together, the toe piece and heel piece each having a Y-shapedslit therein;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view showing the uniting of the upper assemblyof Fig. 4 and the linin assembly of Fig. 1, as well as the counterinserted in the shoe;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the shoe showing a last inserted thereinand the forepart end of the upper turned back to permit insertion of thetoe box;

Fig. 7 is, a perspective View of the shoe showing the same after the toebox and counter have been inserted and the end pieces and lastingallowance on the upper have been lasted in over the sock lining;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of a completed shoe Figs. 9, 10 and 11 arecross sectional views taken along the lines IX-IX, X-X and XIXI,respectively, of Fig. 8;

Figs. 12, 13 and 14 are cross sectional views of a shoe of the platformtype incorporating this invention, taken through a platform shoe onlines corresponding to those on which Figs. 9, 10 and 11, respectively,are taken; and

Figs. 15, 16 and 17 are cross sectional views of ashoe of the prewelttype incorporating the invention of this application, taken through aprewelt shoe on. lines corresponding to those on which Figs. 9, l0 and11, respectively, are taken.

Referring now to the drawings, Fig. 1 discloses a sock lining 20 made ofany suitable material which has a shape corresponding to the shape ofthe bottom of the last upon. which the shoe is to be made plus the usualseam allowance. This sock lining has formed therein two pairs of shortslits 22 and 23, one pair a short distance forward of the ends of thebreast line and the other pair slightly to the rear of the ends of thetip line. The sock lining 29 and the upper lining 26 are joinedtogether, as. illustrated, by the seam 28 which extends completelyaround the shoe.

Fig. 2 shows the toe piece 36 which is preferably composed of relativelythin pliable material and is peripherally shaped like the bottom of thesock lining forward of the tip line, and Fig. 3 discloses a heel piece38 which may be made of material similar to the toe piece 36. The heelpiece is peripherally shaped like the bottom of the heel end portion ofthe sock lining.

Fig. 4 discloses the upper 38 which is provided With a lasting allowance34 in the shank and forepart and with a seam allowance only about theheel portion. The upper 38 and upper lining 24 are accurately precutaccording to the size and shape of the last to be used, as is the casein making shoes by the slip lasted method.

Referring to Fig. 4, the toe piece 35 is attached by suitable fasteningmeans, illustrated as a seam 40, to the inside of the toe portion of theupper 30, the seam 48 extending along the line 35 which defines the lineon the upper which, when the upper is lasted, is to lie along the cornerof the last bottom, that is, along the feather line of the last, and theheel piece 38 is attached to the inside of the heel end of the upper bythe seam 42 which also extends along the line 35. This line also marksthe lower margin of the upper 30 and the upper margin of the lastingallowance 34.

As illustrated, each of the end pieces is provided with a Y-shaped slit,the stems of which extend longitudinally of the shoe bottom.

Having produced two separate assemblies such as shown in Figs. 1 and l,the assembly of Fig. 1 is placed inside the assembly of Fig. 4, as shownin Fig. 5, and the two assemblies are united on both sides of the shoefrom the slits 22 to the slits 23, in the illustrated case by the twoseams 48 which pass through the upper along the line 35 and the socklining 20 and upper lining 24 close to the seam 28 which unites the socklining and upper lining. Slits 22 and 23 are respectively located in thesock lining 28 just to the rear of the ends of the tip line and a shortdistanee forward of the ends of the breast line and serve to indicatethe limits of the attachment of the upper to the sock lining, and toassist the operator in making the attachment. The top stitching 31 maynow be done if not done before.

It should be noted that at this point the upper lining 24 and socklining 20 are joined together by the seam 28 which extends completelyaround the shoe, and that the upper 30 is attached to the upper liningand sock lining from a point somewhat forward of the breast line to apoint just at the rear of the tip line of the shoe. However, the upper38 and toe piece 36 are not attached to the sock lining or upper liningforward of the tip line. and the upper and heel piece 38 are notattached to the upper lining or sock lining rearward of the breast line.

If desired, the top stitching 31 may be accomplished prior to theattachment of the sock lining to the upper lining, and the previouslydescribed sequence of operations may be considerably varied in otherrespects without departing from the substance of the invention. The sameis also true of the sequence of operations hereinafter described.

The free heel end of the upper and heel piece 38 may then be pulled awayfrom the upper lining and the counter 58 inserted in the shoe betweenthe lining and upper, after which the heel end of the upper and heelpiece 38 may be returned to approximately the positions shown in Fig. 5.

The last is then inserted in the shoe, and the tuck 52 and shank 53 laidin position with the tuck against the sock lining and under the counterflange, as shown in Fig. 7. The heel seat is next lasted, and this maybe performed by applying an adhesive to the adjacent surfaces of thecounter flange, tuck 52 and heel piece 38, and the various sections ofthe heel piece 38 formed by the Y-shaped slit are lasted into theposition shown in Fig. 7 on the bottom of the shoe by bringing the edgesof the slits together until they form a composite whole of the sameshape as shown in Fig. 3 with the curved periphery of the heel pieceparallel with the corresponding periphery of the heel end of the socklining. The

adhesive permanently retains the heel piece 38 and consequently the heelend of the shoe in proper lasted position. The heel piece 38 can also belasted in position by other selected means, such as tacks clenched onthe heel plate of the last.

The free toe end of the upper 38 and toe piece 36 are turned back overthe vamp (Fig. 6) and the toe box 54 is placed in position over the toeend of the upper lining 24. The toe box 54 may be of any selected type,but preferably is soft or pliable when inserted in the shoe when a solidbox is used, but the invention also includes coating the upper toelining with an appropriate stiffening agent in liquid form. Theunderside of the toe piece 36 is preferably coated with a suitableadhesive, as is the corresponding area of the sock lining 20, and theturned back toe end of the upper and toe piece are then pulled over thetoe end of the last and the various sections of the toe piece 36 formedby the Y- shaped slit are lasted flat against the bottom of the toe endof the sock lining 20 (Fig. 7) so that the various sections of the toepiece 36 are positioned by bringing the edges of the slits together togive the toe piece the same shape as shown in Fig. 2 with the curvedperiphery of the toe piece parallel to the periphery of the toe end ofthe sock lining. The toe piece 36 is permanently held in position by theapplied adhesive.

In order to bring the edges of the slits in the toe and heel piecestogether when lasting, each of the pieces is preferably slightl largerthan the corresponding end of the sock lining, but, alternatively, thetoe piece or heel piece can be attached to the upper somewhat below theline 35.

It will be appreciated that by providing an end piece 36 or 38, of thedescribed size and shape relative to the ends of the sock lining andattached to the upper as explained, when the end. of the upper is pulledover the last after the insertion of the end stiffening element and thevarious sections of the toe piece or heel piece are positioned relativeto one another as explained, the free end of the upper has been broughtinto proper lasted position and may be secured therein by the adhesiveapplied to the end piece and the elements engaged thereby. The use of anend piece such as described is particularly advantageous in that theupper is brought into proper lasted position completely around the endof the last.

Having lasted the end pieces 38 and 38 into position as shown in Fig.'7, the lasting allowance 34 at the forward end of the shoe is lasted inover the bottom of the shoe and secured in lasted position by anysuitable means such as an adhesive.

The shoe may then be completed in any conventional manner. For example,referring to Figs. 8 to 11, the bottom and outsole 58 may be cemented,the outsole laid, and the heel 60 attached. The outsole 58 may be of thegouged type, as. shown in the drawings, having a gouge therein shapedaccording to the lower periphery of the shoe so that the seams in, 42and M will not be visible from the exterior of the shoe.

It will be noted that the completed shoe shown in Fig. 8 has an exteriorappearance similar to a conventionally lasted shoe and has no visiblefeatures which would suggested that the shoe is of slip lastedconstruction. The upper lining of the shoe is attached to the socklining com letely around the shoe, and the upper is lasted to the bottomof the shoe throughout the periphery of the shoe; Consequently, the shoeis of a sturdy construction comfortablleto the wearer. The method ofconstruction of the shoe makes it possible to provide an end stiffeningelement in either or both ends of the shoe and the method ofconstruction including the use of the toe piece and/or heel piecemakesit possible to readily and accurately last the end or ends of theupper. N0 relasting operating is necessary in the construetion of theshoe.

The use of the toe piece and/orheel piece disclosed hereinb'efore may:alsobe employed in corn junction with a, shoe of the platform typehaving a platform cover. Referring to Figs. 12, 13 and 14, in themanufacture of such a shoe the upper lining 24 and sock lining it may bepro vided and assembled to produce the assembly shown in. Fig. l, and anupper assembly including the upper 3'0 attached to the toe piece it bystitches -40 and attached to the heel piece 38 by stitches e2 may alsobe provided. At this point the upper assembly will be like that shown inFig. 4 with the exception: that the forepart of the upper is notprovided with the lasting allowance 34, although such a lastingallowance could be employed, if desired The forepart platform cover 62'is then fastened to the upper by any suitable means, in the illustratedcase by the seam M which passes through the cover, upper andtoe piecealong the lower margin of the upper. Also, the upper assembly isprovided with a heel cover 66 which is attached to" the rear end of theupper by any suitable means, in the illustrated.

case by the seam (it, this seam passing through the upper 3;), heelpiecetii and cover 66. It will. be appreciated that, if desired, theplatform covers 62 and 66 and the toe piece 36 and heel piece 33 may beattached to the uppertii by 2, single seam.

Having provided the described assemblies, the lining assembly isinserted in the upper assembly and the two assemblies are suitablyjoined on both sides of the shoe from points a short distance forward ofthe breast line almost to the tip line, as shown in Fig. 13, in theillustrated case the joining seams It passing through the margins of theplatform cover 62, upper (it, upper lining 24 'and sock lining 26. Thecounter 50 is inserted, the last is then placed in the shoe, the ends ofthe upper assembly turned back, the toe box 54, tuck 52, and shank 53inserted, and the end pieces 36 and 38 are lasted, all as previouslydescribed. The bottom of the shoe is then completed in the conventionalmanner, as by laying the platform i4, lasting in the covers 52 and 66,and applying the outsole is and heel 4-8.

Reference is now made to Figs. 15, 16 and 1'? which disclose thisinvention as it may be incorporated in a shoe of the prewelt type. Theshoe disclosed in these figures is like that of Figs. 12, 13 and 14,with the exception that the welt Si! is employed in the place of theplatform covers, and the outsole is attached to the upper by the seam 82passing through the welt 80 and margin of the outsole l6. The process ofmanufacture of the shoe of Figs. id to 17 may be the same as;- describedin conjunction with Figs. 12 to 14 except that the welt is substitutedfor the platform. covers and the attaching of the bottom. of the shoe iscompleted by well-known methods of prewelt construction.

The platform and prewelt constructions. have the same advantages asoutlined above connection with the first embodiment of th invention.

It should be understood that althoughthis application discloses the useof a toe piece and heel. piece to assist in the lasting of the shoe, itis not a departure from my invention to employ such a piece at only oneend ofthe shoe, in which case the construction at the other end of'theshoe. may be of any selected type. Furthermore, certain variations maybe made in the construction of the shoe as well as in the process ofconstruction thereof without departing from the substance of' theinvention, this being particularly true in thecase where only one end ofthe shoe is constructed according to my invention. It is also possibleto vary the described sequence of operations without departing from thesubstance of my invention Having thus described my invention, what Iclaim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United Statesis:

1. That improvement in methods of making closed end slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited at one end to one another, providing an upper portion, uniting anend piece to. the end portion of the upper along a line near the lowermargin thereof, uniting the sock lining and upper between said end pieceand their other ends, inserting an end stifiening element between theupper and lining, and securing the end piece to the shoe bottom.

That improvement in methods of making closed end slip lasted shoes whichincludes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper lining unitedat one end to one another, providing an upper having an end portion,uniting an end piece shaped like the said end of the sock lining to theend of the upper along. a lin near the lower margin thereof, uniting thesock lining and upper between the end piece and their other ends,inserting an end stiffening element between the upper and lining, andsecuring the end piece to the shoe bottom.

3. That improvement in methods of making closed end slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited at one end to one another, providing an upper having an endportion, uniting an end piece to the end of the upper along a line nearthe lower margin thereof, uniting the sock lining and upper between theend piece and their other ends, inserting a last in the shoe, insertingan end stiffening element between the upper and lining, and lasting theend of the upper by securing the end piece to the shoe bottom.

l. That improvement in methods of making closed end slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited at one end to one another, providing an upper having an endportion, uniting an end piece to the end of the upper along a line nearthe lower margin thereof, uniting the sock lining and upper between theend piece and their other ends, inserting an end stifiening elementbetween the upper and lining, inserting a last in the shoe, and lastingthe end of the upper by securing the end piece to the shoe bottom.

5. That improvement in methods of making closed end slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited at one end to one another, providing an upper having an endportion and a slit end piece shaped like the said end of the sock liningunited to the end of the upper along a line near the lower marginthereof, uniting the sock linin and upper between the end piece andtheir other ends, inserting an end stiffening element between the upperand lining, and securing the end piece to the shoe bottom with the slitclosed.

6. That improvement in methods of making closed toe slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and a forepart upperlining united thereto forward of the tip line, providing an upper havinga forepart and a slit toe piece shaped like the toe end of the socklining attached to the forepart of the upper along a line near the lowermargin thereof, uniting the sock lining and upper between the toe pieceand the other end of the shoe, inserting an end stiffening elementbetween the upper and lining, and securing the toe piece to the shoebottom with the slit closed.

'7. That improvement in methods of making closed heel slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited thereto at their heel ends, providing an upper having a closedheel portion and a slit heel piece shaped like the heel end of the socklining united to the heel end of the upper along a line near the lowermargin thereof, uniting the sock lining and upper forwardly of the heelpiece, inserting a counter between the upper and its lining, andsecuring the heel piece to the heel end of the shoe bottom with the slitclosed.

8. That improvement in methods of making closed toe slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock linin and a forepart upperlining united thereto forward of the tip line, providing an upper havinga forepart and a toe piece shaped like the toe end of the sock liningunited to the upper along a line near the lower margin thereof andforward of the tip line, uniting the sock lining and upper rearward ofthe tip line, inserting a last in the shoe, ap-

plying toe stiffening means on the lining forward 8 of the tip line, andlasting the upper forward of the tip line by securing the toe piece tothe bottom of the toe end of the sock lining.

9. That improvement in methods of making closed heel slip lasted shoeswhich includes the steps of providing a sock lining and an upper liningunited thereto at their heel ends, providing an upper having a closedheel portion and a heel piece shaped like the heel end of the socklining united to the upper along a line near the lower margin thereof atthe heel end of the same, uniting the sock lining and upper forwardly ofthe heel piece, inserting a counter in the shoe between the upper andits lining, and securing the heel piece to the heel end of the shoebottom.

10. A shoe comprising a sock lining and an upper lining attached theretoat one end portion of the sock lining, an upper, an end piece attachedto the end portion of the upper along the lower margin thereof, endstiffening means between the lining and upper, fastening means unitingthe upper and sock lining between the end piece and the other endportion of the shoe, and means securing said end piece to the under sideof the shoe bottom for holding the end of the upper in lasted position.

11. A shoe comprising a sock lining and an upper lining attached theretoforward of the tip line, an upper attached to the sock lining rearwardof the tip line, toe stiffening means between the lining and upperforward of the tip line, and a toe piece attached to the upper along thelower margin thereof and to the shoe bottom for holding the upper inlasted position forward of the tip line.

12. A shoe comprising a sock lining and an upper lining attached theretoat the heel end of the sock lining, an upper, a heel piece attached tothe heel end of the upper along the lower margin thereof, heel stiffeninmeans between the lining and upper, fastening means uniting the upperand sock lining between the heel piece and toe portion of the shoe, andmeans securing said heel piece to the shoe bottom for holding the heelend of the upper in lasted position.

KARL A. STRITTER.

No references cited.

